Blueberry Buckle

One thing I miss about working in a professional kitchen is participating in menu development.

At Boulevard, chef/owner Nancy Oakes, a dessert lover, has a way of breezing into the pastry kitchen and loosely outlining what she wants: "I'm thinking: memories, childhood. Cupcakes and Rocky Road. I want chocolate and marshmallow. Can we do something fun, something nostalgic?". The pastry chef would then brainstorm for a day or two, working to match a plate to Nancy's vision. Sometimes it took a few tries, but when Nancy finally announced "that's IT!", we all breathed a sigh of relief (little puts more stress on a time-crunched kitchen than recipe testing).

"Huckleberry Buckle!" Nancy declared one morning. "Don'cha love saying that? Huckleberry Buckle. I think that would be nice for the menu. It's summer, we should have it! Huckleberry Buckle."

Growing up in New England, blueberry buckle showed up at various picnic tables of my youth, accompanied by grilled meats, local corn, a cooler full of beer, Aunt Ginny's pickles, and a game of horseshoes or Jarts. Tasty and simple, it was almost like a coffeecake, covered with a streusel topping. 

With desserts listing at ten bucks a pop, this isn't quite what Nancy (from Massachusetts, by the way) was looking for...but close. Keep the integrity, up the punch.

What (pastry chef) Jessica Sullivan came up with is easily my favorite item to come out of that kitchen. Served with (what I like to call) a huckleberry gumdrop, vanilla ice cream with a huckleberry swirl, and a drizzle of huckleberry caramel, this is, as they say, as good as it gets. It remains a buckle, but a better buckle (that's fun to say, too), one that is both crisp and juicy, buttery, tender, and tart.

Huckleberries are expensive and near impossible to find commercially (they're usually supplied to restaurants by professional foragers, who closely guard their livelihood). I've made this at home with blueberries and while it's not quite as intensely flavored, it's still wonderful. If you're lucky enough to have access to wild blueberries, you'll come pretty close.

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Boulevard (Blueberry) Buckle                                                      

This isn't a recipe as much as an outline, using simple components  you most likely already have in your recipe box, or can easily obtain.

Line the bottom of a sheet pan (not the sides, as they will get too dark) with pie dough to which you've added a pinch of cinnamon. Sprinkle lightly with sugar, coarse sugar if  you have it. Prick all over with a fork and bake fully, checking halfway to pat down any bubbles that may occur. Cool completely.

Prepare- adding some chopped ginger or lemon zest- your favorite butter cake batter (pound cake, upside-down cake, coffeecake, etc. One that contains sour cream- or creme fraiche- is particularly nice. I like the upside down cake recipe from Baking With Julia).

Pour the batter over the cooled pie shell, filling the pan 2/3 full- you want just a thin layer of cake, so split your recipe in half, if necessary. Completely cover the batter with a single layer of berries.

Bake at 350 degrees until the edges turn golden. Remove from the oven, then cover the cake with a layer of your favorite streusel topping. Continue baking until streusel is browned and crisp.

                                                                                                               

Comments

[Mitzy]

i never tasted a huckleberry. sounds good though.

[Ann]

I love going to picnics at your house. I allso like going to the beach there.I allso like watching the fireworks at the beach on the 4th of July. But I liked your dads jokes the best. Ann

[shuna fish lydon]

mmmmmmmmmmmmmm just in time. I will soon be posting my perfected yellow cake recipe!

Except for the mint on the plate I think the dessert looks fab.

[Madeleine]

Yum, yum, yum!

[Ivonne]

Wow! That is really something. I'm (sort of) embarrassed to admit this but I don't think I've ever even seen a huckleberry. But blueberries we definitely have a lot of.

Another Egg Hunt recipe to bookmark!

[Anita]

I love your story about menu development - it's amazing to see what comes out of imagination and creativity! The Huckleberry Buckle looks like a fab dessert!

[Patty]

I'm another huckleberry virgin here. It looks delicious though.

[Michelle]

I just found your blog, and don't see an e-mail address, so thought I'd post here. I moved to the mountains recently, and used to be a decent baker, but I'm having problems, which I assume are because of the elevation. Are your recipies converted for altitude??? Please e-mail me the answer, if you would be so kind!

[barknot]

Hola,Egghunt,

I just found your blog as I was searching for a recipe for lemon marmalade.

Plumas County? That is beautiful country and yes, very different from San Francisco. I remember spending a couple of days there on the way to Mt Lassen a few years ago. Little did I know I would be camping in snow in the middle of June.

Now that I'm living in Miami Beach I fondly recall the air-conditioned air of San Francisco, Plumas and Mt Lassen. I miss it and hope to return to Northern California this year.

I wanted to tell you that the recipes on your blog are super. One of a kind and easy. That cherry compote is going to be made tonight in my kitchen and I'm going to eat it with some fine vanilla ice cream. I can't wait.

I didn't see an email address which is why I'm posting this to you.

Thanks for a great site.

best,

barknot
barknot@aol.com

[Jessica]

Mmm. Sounds absolutely devine. I had huckleberries for the first time earlier this month when visiting Montana. You really do have to be in the right place at the right time to get them fresh. I've pointed my aunt, who lives in huckleberry country, is a huckleberry freak and an amazing baker, to your site for this recipe.

I, once I can eat sweets again (thank you gestational diabetes) will be making this recipe with blueberries. Can't wait!